Time for fresh corn

Summer get-togethers like the Fourth of July usually involve lots of food. Grills take over for the season, giving stoves and ovens a much-needed break. One of the best summer foods to put on the grill is fresh corn. Corn is truly a-maize-ing (pun intended): not only can we eat the kernels in all sorts of preparations, we can make tamales from the husks, burn the cobs for fuel, feed animals with the stalks and make byproducts like corn oil and corn starch, whiskey and corn syrup. In the Midwest, “Knee-High by the Fourth of July” was our motto for measuring the growth of corn stalks in my family’s garden. Here’s how to “read” an ear of corn when buying at the market: Only buy corn that is still in the husks. Pull back the husks a little bit, to view the kernels: they should be in tight rows; if there are gaps between the rows, the corn is over-mature and may be more starchy than sweet. The kernels should go all the way up to the tips; if the tips have no kernels, the corn was picked too soon. Kernels should be plump and squirt white milk when poked with a fingernail. If the center of the kernel is sinking in, the corn is drying out and won’t be as sweet. As soon as it’s picked, an ear of corn starts converting its sugar to starch, losing its delicious sweetness. That’s why corn should be eaten right away when purchased, stored for no longer than a day or two if needed, and left in the husks until just before cooking. Adding a little sugar to the cooking water can help bring back some of the sweet taste that is lost during storage. Never use salt in the cooking water, as it will toughen the corn. Now that you are corn educated, it’s time to experiment.