Make great shrimp scampi without the butter-and-oil slick

This undated photo provided by America's Test Kitchen in October 2018 shows Shrimp Scampi in Brookline, Mass. This recipe appears in the cookbook "Revolutionary Recipes." (Carl Tremblay/America's Test Kitchen via AP)

Shrimp scampi is rarely awful — it’s unusual for things to go terribly wrong when garlic, wine and butter are involved — but restaurant versions always make me wish I’d ordered differently. I have never been presented with the ultimate scampi at a restaurant, the one that I can almost taste when I peruse the menu: perfectly cooked, briny beauties in a garlicky, buttery (but not greasy) white wine sauce.