Toasting volcanic wines of the world

A basket vine of Assyrtiko on the Greek island of Santorini. (Hayley Hamilton Cogill/Special to West Hawaii Today)

Hayley Hamilton Cogill.

There is energy in the majestic mountains of our island — breathing life, capturing the imagination, supporting spirituality, bringing stability, connecting us to the universe, grounding us to the earth. Hawaii’s volcanic mountains are like others in the world, bringing unmistakable energy to their surroundings. In wine, that translates to a unique mark of power and strength. Volcanic wines, or wines from grapes grown in soils filled with volcanic ash, basalt, and rocks, tend to have vibrant acidity melding with robust tannins, delivering unique character. These are not fruit driven. Instead, volcanic wine are terroir driven, telling the story of place, highlighting savory, salty, umani notes.