Lemony marinade does double duty for roasted chicken

  • This image released by Milk Street shows a recipe for Chicken Salmoriglio, made with grated lemon zest, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper. (Milk Street/via AP)

  • This image released by Milk Street shows a recipe for Chicken Salmoriglio, made with grated lemon zest, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper. (Milk Street via AP)

In the market squares of Sicily and Calabria, street vendors baste thick swordfish chops with a bright blend of lemon juice and olive oil, grilling them over smoldering coals and filling the air with an alluring mix of char and sweet. The simple, ancient combination is called salmoriglio, and it’s the primary way fish is served in southern Italy.