The world’s best coffee makers are turning to moldy beans

  • At Hatch in Ontario, Canada, koji coffee is on the menu. (Hatch Coffee/TNS)

Chefs generally want to keep mold out of their kitchens, but they make an exception for koji. For around a decade, the fungus has been a secret weapon for trailblazing chefs like Rene Redzepi at Noma in Copenhagen, used to ferment grains, cure proteins and impart umami to dishes both sweet and savory.