Chinese chicken salad offers an enticing variety of tastes

This undated photo provided by America's Test Kitchen in December 2018 shows Chinese Chicken Salad in Brookline, Mass. This recipe appears in the cookbook "Nutritious Delicious." (Carl Tremblay/America's Test Kitchen via AP)

With its juicy oranges, tender chicken and a crunchy topping, Chinese chicken salad offers an enticing variety of tastes and textures. But many versions seem to have lost their way, weighted down with gloppy sauces, lackluster chicken, sugary canned orange segments and watery greens.