Though the fruit on most domestic cherry trees won’t be ready to pick for a few more weeks, we can fuel our anticipation and enjoy the essence of cherry flavor with dried cherries, which are readily available year-round. From sprinkling them on morning cereal or a dinner salad, to baking a handful in a batch of brownies, dried cherries can add an extra layer of flavor, color and texture.
The sweet-tart goodness of cherries has always been a favorite of mine. Named for the Turkish town of Cerasus, cherries are estimated to have been around since about 300 B.C. They offer some vitamins A and C and lots of versatility. If you can’t wait for the short but delicious cherry season (I know I can’t; I had to get some dried ones to munch while writing this column) these recipes should sustain you until the real deal arrives next month.
Dried cherry relish
Serve this enticing condiment with ham, turkey or pork. It’s great on sandwiches, too, and can be made up to a week in advance. Recipe from Bon Appetit magazine. Makes 12 to 14 servings.
1/2 cup creme de cassis (black currant flavored liqueur) or cherry-flavored brandy
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
2 cups dried tart cherries (about 10 ounces)
3/4 cup pecans, toasted and chopped (about 3 ounces)
2 tablespoons grated orange peel
Stir creme de cassis, 1/2 cup water and sugar in a heavy, medium saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil. Add dried cherries. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until cherries are plump, about five minutes. Mix in pecans and orange peel. Season relish lightly with salt. Transfer to a bowl to cool. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
Sour cherry pancakes
Pancakes with pizazz courtesy of Food &Wine books. Makes 12 three-inch pancakes.
1/2 cup dried sour cherries (about 3 ounces)
1 cup red wine
3 large eggs
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup water
2 large egg whites
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons clarified unsalted butter*
In a small saucepan, simmer dried cherries in wine over medium heat until cherries are plump, about 15 minutes. Drain cherries; reserve wine for another use. In a large bowl, whisk the whole eggs with the oil, flour, salt, pepper, baking powder and water. Transfer mixture to a food processor or blender; blend until smooth. Return batter to bowl. In a medium bowl, beat egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. Fold egg whites into pancake batter using a spatula.
In a large heavy skillet, heat 2 teaspoons of the butter. Gently stir batter, then make three pancakes using about 3 tablespoons batter for each. Sprinkle about eight cherries on each pancake and cook over medium-high heat until golden on bottoms, about two minutes. Turn pancakes; cook on second side for one minute. Transfer to a baking sheet and keep warm while you repeat process with remaining butter and pancakes.
*For clarified butter: Warm it over low heat just until melted; let stand for five minutes. Skim solids off top, then pour the clear butter into a bowl and refrigerate until ready to use.
Dried cherry coffee cake with hazelnut topping
This is quick and easy to prepare, so you won’t have to wait too long to enjoy it. Recipe from “Caprial Cooks for Friends” by Caprial Spence. Makes 12 servings.
Hazelnut Topping:
2 cups chopped toasted, skinned hazelnuts
1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup flour
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
In a bowl, combine nuts, butter, sugar and flour; mix well to form a crumbly mixture. Add spices and mix well; set aside.
Coffee Cake:
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
2 cups granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
Pinch of salt
1 cup sour cream
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped dried cherries
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer, beat butter and granulated sugar at high speed until creamy and a pale lemon color, about four minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add vanilla; mix well. In a small bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add half of dry mixture to butter mixture; beat well. Add about half the sour cream; beat well. Repeat with remaining flour and sour cream. Fold in the dried cherries. Pour about half the batter into a well-greased 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Cover the batter with half the topping. Spread remaining batter over topping and sprinkle with remaining topping. Bake until golden brown and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve warm.
Apple and dried cherry crisp
Try this delicious crisp with a good vanilla bean ice cream. Recipe from “Fresh From the Farmers Market” by Janet Fletcher. Makes six servings.
1/2 cup dried sour or sweet cherries
2 pounds cooking apples
1/4 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch of salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, in small pieces
1/3 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts
Put cherries in a small bowl with just enough water to cover. Let stand one hour; drain. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Quarter, core and peel apples. Cut each quarter crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices. In a large bowl, combine apple slices and 2 tablespoons granulated sugar. Toss to coat. In electric mixer with paddle attachment, combine flour, remaining 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, the brown sugar, cinnamon and salt. Mix on low until well blended. Add butter pieces; mix until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add oatmeal and walnuts; mix on medium-low until mixture forms clumps (two or three minutes). Layer apples in a 10-inch pie pan, sprinkling cherries evenly between layers. Make sure no cherries are exposed or they will burn. Cover with topping, pressing it lightly into an even layer. Bake until topping is browned and filling is bubbly, about 55 minutes. Remove from oven and cool on a rack.