Volcano Watch: Trek to the mountain of water

VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK — The field day begins with a summit weather check at first light. It is a reflective moment at 6:15 a.m. atop Kilauea Volcano, and the fumarole cracks are steaming like the coffee from my thermos. The weather at Halemaumau crater is cool and dry, with light trade winds from the northeast. We hope for these mornings.