Apricot season: short and sweet-tart

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Apricots are nature’s way of telling us that it’s okay to blush. And, like that fleeting expression, their season is short lived. With a barely two months availability from now through July, and the fact that only about 20 percent of the world’s apricot crop is sold fresh, very few “perfect” apricots exist. Those that do are often pricey. But if you can get them, make an effort. These orange-to-crimson blushing beauties are loaded with beta carotene (the plant form of vitamin A), are high in potassium and low in calories. Look for fairly firm fruit with a uniform color; you can store in a plastic bag in refrigerator for three to five days.

Apricot’s sweet-tart flavor enhances everything from sauces and salsas to entrees and desserts. Here are some of my favorite ways to showcase this delicate fruit.

Warm apricots stuffed with blue cheese and walnuts

One of my favorite Napa Valley restaurants, Mustard’s Grill, created this amazing pupu. The recipe was published in “Fast Appetizers” by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison. Serves 10 to 20. It does require apricots at their peak, not overripe.

15 fresh apricots, best available

Juice of 1 lemon

1/3 cup walnut pieces

1/2 pound blue cheese

1 1/2 ounces thinly sliced ham

3 cups baby spinach leaves or arugula leaves

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Cut apricots in half and remove pits. Drizzle lemon juice over cut halves. Place walnuts on a baking sheet; toast in oven until golden, about 10 to 15 minutes. Coarsely chop walnuts; mix with blue cheese until evenly combined. Fill hollow of apricot halves with nut-cheese mixture. Wrap each apricot half with a single layer of ham and secure with a toothpick. Refrigerate until ready to use. This part can be made up to eight hours before cooking.

Before serving: Toss spinach leaves with olive oil; arrange on serving platter. Grill or broil apricots until cheese just begins to melt, 30 to 60 seconds. Place apricots on top of spinach and serve while still warm.

Chicken and apricot stew

This Moroccan tagine-style, savory stew is great served over couscous or rice. Recipe from Martha Stewart Living magazine. Makes four servings.

4 chicken legs and thighs (about 3 pounds)

Coarse salt and fresh ground black pepper

1/4 cup cooking oil

1 yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 1/2 pounds small ripe apricots (10 to 12), quartered and pitted

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon saffron threads

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground coriander

4 tablespoons honey

Season chicken with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium high heat until hot but not smoking. Add chicken; cook until browned, about four minutes per side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about seven minutes. Add garlic; saute briefly. Add apricots, cinnamon, saffron, ginger, coriander, 2/3 cup water and 2 tablespoons of the honey. Season with salt to taste. Return chicken to skillet; bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook until chicken is done and liquid is thickened, 45 to 50 minutes. Add remaining 2 tablespoons honey and salt to taste. Place chicken on serving platter; pour sauce over. Serve with hot couscous or rice.

Honey-poached apricots with star anise

Star anise, ginger and vanilla bean combine for a refreshing dessert with exotic flavors. Recipe from Bon Appetit magazine. Makes four servings.

1 pound firm ripe apricots

3 cups water

1/2 cup honey

4-by-1/2-0inch strip lemon peel, yellow part only

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Three 1/8-inch-thick slices fresh ginger

1 star anise

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Vanilla yogurt or frozen yogurt

Fresh mint leaves for garnish

Cut apricots in half, discard pits. Combine the water, honey, lemon peel, lemon juice, ginger and star anise in a heavy medium saucepan. Scrape seeds from vanilla bean into pan; add bean. Bring to a simmer over high heat, stirring to dissolve honey. Add apricots; reduce heat to low and simmer until apricots are tender, about seven minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer apricots to a medium bowl. Increase heat to high, boiling until syrup is reduced to 2/3 cup, about 30 minutes. Strain over apricots, then cool to lukewarm. Cover and refrigerate a few hours or overnight. Spoon apricots into shallow serving bowls; spoon some syrup over. Top with a dollop of yogurt or frozen yogurt and garnish with fresh mint.

Baked apricots with buttered bread crumbs

If you have slightly green, under-ripe apricots, baking will improve their flavor. The bread crumbs make a light, buttery crust. Recipe from “The Savory Way” by Deborah Madison. Makes four servings.

1 1/2 pounds fresh apricots

4 to 5 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons water

2-inch vanilla bean

2 cups fresh bread crumbs made from white bread

1/4 cup melted unsalted butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Wash apricots, slice them in half, and discard pits. Toss apricots with the sugar. Put the water in the bottom of a glass pie plate or baking dish. Slice vanilla bean in half lengthwise and lay it in the water; set apricots on top. Toss bread crumbs and melted butter together, then spread them over the apricots. Bake until bread crumbs are lightly browned and fruit is tender, about 25 minutes. Let dessert settle and cool before serving it warm with a bowlful of lightly whipped cream sweetened with sugar and a drop of vanilla.

Apricot-jicama salsa

This clean, crunchy salsa is great with grilled fish, such as ahi steaks. Recipe from Cook’s Illustrated magazine. Makes about 4 cups.

1/2 pound jicama, peeled, sliced thin, then cut into 1/4-inch strips

4 apricots, pitted and cut into 1/2-inch slices

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

1/2 small red onion, halved and sliced thin

1/2 small red bell pepper, cored and sliced thin

1 tablespoon minced chipotle peppers

2 tablespoons juice from one lime

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and fresh ground black pepper

Mix all ingredients in a large bowl, including salt and pepper to taste. Toss lightly. Refrigerate until ready to use.