It’s easy to be cool

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Quick — complete this phrase: Cool as a ____. If you thought cucumber, you are probably in the majority, but exactly what does that phrase mean? Well, let’s consider the cucumber in culinary terms: it offers a refreshing, palate-cleansing astringency that “cools” the mouth after a bite of spicy food. The cucumber is thought to have originated in Thailand or India, where its mild, crisp flavor is a perfect foil for curries and other foods from those countries. For pupus, cucumbers can be cool “platforms” for a variety of toppings. Slicing them into pitchers of water, or juicing into smoothies are other ways they can refresh.

Low in calories and high in fiber, cucumbers also offer a little vitamin C, folate and potassium. Choose firm cucumbers with smooth, brightly colored skins; avoid any with shriveled or soft spots. Cucumbers with small seeds are best; older ones with bigger seeds can taste bitter and need the seeds removed. The English, or Hothouse cucumber is virtually seedless. Store them whole and unwashed in a plastic bag in the refrigerator up to 10 days. Wash just before using.

And stay cool.

Asian cucumber ribbon salad

This is an easy and refreshing salad that you should make about 15 minutes before serving, so it doesn’t become soggy. Recipe from Gourmet magazine. Makes four servings.

1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon soy sauce

1/2 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

1 1/2 English cucumbers (about 1 1/4 pounds), halved crosswise

Bring rice vinegar and sugar to a simmer in a small pan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Cool to room temperature. Stir in soy sauce and sesame oil. Cut cucumber lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick ribbons using a mandolin or other manual slicer. Toss cucumber with dressing; let stand five minutes, but no more than 15 minutes, then serve.

Yogurt raita with tomato and cucumber

Traditionally served with most Indian meals, the raita’s cooling components include not only cucumber, but also yogurt and cumin, which is a “cooling” spice. Serve with curry or with grilled chicken. Recipe from “Madhur Jaffrey’s Spice Kitchen.” Makes four to six servings.

2 cups plain yogurt

1/2 teaspoon salt

Fresh ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon cayenne (red) pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground roasted cumin seeds*

1 small tomato, cut into small dice

About 4 inches of cucumber with small or no seeds, peeled and cut into small dice

Put yogurt in a bowl; beat lightly with a fork until smooth. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Chill until ready to use.

Cucumber with walnut miso

This Japanese pupu recipe comes from “Oriental Appetizers” by Yukiko Haydock. Makes about 40.

2/3 cup walnuts, plus about 40 small walnut pieces

1/2 cup red miso

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup mirin (sweet Japanese cooking wine)

2 tablespoons sake

1 English cucumber

Mince walnuts in a food processor, being careful not to make a paste. In a saucepan, combine miso, sugar, mirin and sake. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for five minutes. Remove from heat; stir in the walnuts. Set mixture aside to cool. Cut cucumber into 3-inch rounds and core, then cut each round into quarters. Spoon a little miso and walnut mixture on each section. Top with a piece of walnut and chill until ready to serve.

Cucumber boats with bay shrimp

Prepare this simple pupu no more than half an hour before serving. You can use regular cucumbers or the seedless ones. Recipe from “Hors d’Oeuvres” by Norman Kolpas. Makes about 36 boats.

4 (8-to-10-inch-long) cucumbers

3/4 cup mayonnaise

6 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 1/2 cups cooked baby bay shrimp

Peel cucumbers and cut in half lengthwise. With a small spoon, neatly scoop out seeds to leave a deep groove along each cucumber half. Cut halves crosswise into 2-inch pieces. Stir together mayonnaise, 1/4 cup of the chives and the lemon juice. Add shrimp and stir to mix. Place a generous tablespoon of shrimp mixture on each cucumber piece. Garnish tops with remaining chives and arrange on a serving tray.