When Capt. Bligh was transporting breadfruit plantings on the HMS Bounty, he made the not-so-fortuitous decision to use a good portion of the ship’s rationed water for the plants rather than for the crew. This decision fueled the infamous “Mutiny on the Bounty.” A member of the mulberry family, breadfruit originally came to Hawaii with the Polynesians. The Hawaiian variety, called ulu, is seedless and propagated by root suckers. Although not indigenous to Hawaii, it has a special place in our history (other than the infamous part.) Ancient Hawaiians baked it in an imu, pounded it into an ingredient for poi, and mixed it with coconut milk for pudding. They used the milky sap for glue and chewing gum, and the wood for canoes. The sap has also been said to heal cuts and other skin diseases.
Breadfruit is actually a high carbohydrate vegetable, not a fruit. A good source of dietary fiber, calcium, magnesium and B vitamins, the green breadfruit is high in starch, which turns to sugar as the plant ripens. The breadfruit is actually gluten free, so the starch can be extracted and used to make flour, porridges, crackers and snack foods that are gluten free. It is a tasty substitute for pasta, potatoes or rice. When baked or roasted, it has a fragrance of fresh baked bread.
Ulu is picked green to be used as a starch vegetable or picked ripe for its sweet custard taste. Like potatoes, the green breadfruit can be steamed, baked, roasted, boiled or fried. When ripe, the flesh is creamy white or yellow and can be eaten raw or cooked. If you haven’t tried it, now is the time. Here are a few very basic recipes to get you started.
Ulu may also be making an appearance in a healthy pupu created by caterer and chef Olelo Paa Ogawa at the upcoming Keauhou Harvest from 5 to 8 p.m. Oct 23. Held at the oceanfront Rays on the Bay in the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay, this event is a fundraiser for the KAPA Radio Kakoo I Na Keiki and the Palamanui Culinary programs. Tickets are $50, available at the door, and include delicious food prepared by Big Island chefs, live jazz, arts and crafts booths. The Keauhou Night Market, open to all, will be on site. Wine, beer and cocktails will also be available.
Roasted breadfruit
Capt. Bligh was eventually successful in getting breadfruit to the Caribbean on the HMS Providence in 1793. It was intended as food for the slaves, but the breadfruit found its way into many Jamaican kitchens. This recipe comes from “Traveling Jamaica with Knife, Fork & Spoon” by Robb Walsh and Jay McCarthy. Since a breadfruit can weigh as much as 10 pounds, you only need one for this recipe.
Roast one green breadfruit whole over charcoal or directly over a gas burner. Turn fruit as it begins to char. The roasting takes about an hour. When steam starts to escape from the stem end, the breadfruit is done. Cut a circle at the stem end. Scoop out the heart and discard. Scoop out the meat or cut off the outer skin and cut the meat into slices; serve hot.
Fried breadfruit chips
The best time to pick a green ulu is when the white, milky sap is plentiful. Just be sure to oil your knife to keep the sap from sticking on it; you may need to have running water for your hands, too. Cut the breadfruit into slices (1 1/2 to 2 inches thick); throw away the heart or seed area. Put slices in water to cover so they don’t turn brown, and to remove the excess starch. Transfer slices to a cooking pot of water and add a few garlic cloves and some salt. Simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and let cool. Line a baking sheet with paper towels and preheat oven to low (200 F.). Heat cooking oil or butter in a frying pan; fry ulu slices in batches until brown and crisp on the outside and tender inside. Place in a single layer on baking sheet and keep warm in the oven until the whole batch is cooked. Sprinkle with salt if desired and serve warm.
Breadfruit bread
This may be the easiest way to “try” breadfruit. It’s also a good recipe for the riper, sweeter breadfruit. Recipe from the “Kona Kitchens” award-winning community cookbook; makes one loaf.
1 egg
1/3 cup cooking oil
1 cup milk
1 cup very ripe breadfruit pulp
1 cup unbleached flour
3/4 cup whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon mace
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup sugar
In a mixing bowl, thoroughly beat the egg, oil and milk. Add breadfruit; beat until creamy. Sift together all the dry ingredients in a separate bowl. Gradually add dry ingredients to breadfruit mixture, stirring until smooth. Pour batter into a greased and floured 8-12 x 4 1/2-inch x 2 1/2-inch loaf pan. Bake in preheated 325 F. oven for 1 hour. Cool before slicing.
Miso Soup with Ulu & Vegetables
Chef Olelo paa Ogawa / Glow Hawaii
Yield: 6 servings
Ulu (Breadfruit) is in season at this time. In old Hawaii times, breadfruit was consumed as a healthy carbohydrate and contains protein and other healthy nutrients.
“When I was growing up on Waipahu Sugar Plantation,” said Ogawa, “my siblings and I had miso soup a few times a week for breakfast before heading out the door to school. It is a soothing soup. my kind of soul food! ”
A large batch can be made ahead of time and the soup freezes well.
8 cups dashi (Japanese Konbu-fish broth) or low sodium chicken broth or water
1 tablespoon minced or grated fresh ginger
1 cup julienne fresh daikon (turnip)
1 cup julienne cabbage or won bok cabbage
½ cup julienne carrots
1 tablespoon dried wakame
1 ½ to 2 cups cooked and firm ulu; cut into ½ inch dice
¼ cup miso paste
Chopped fresh green onion for garnish
Diced tofu, fresh mizuna (Japanese mustard green or bok choy) optional garnishes
Place dashi, ginger, daikon, cabbage and carrots in a pot and simmer for 15 minutes until vegetables are tender. Add the wakame and ulu; simmer for 5 minutes.
Place miso paste in a bowl and stir in ¼ cup soup broth with a small wire whip or fork. Add a bit more broth. Add to soup and taste. Do not boil the soup. This will destroy the probiotics in the miso. Turn off the heat. When serving, place in a bowl and garnish with green onions.