I look forward to spring’s fresh flavors every year. When fruits and vegetables are in their season locally, rather than imported out of season, they just taste better. But this year, I discovered a couple of exotic flavors from far away, that will bring a little pizazz to the usual seasonal produce: za’atar and dukka. The first comes from North Africa; the second is its Egyptian cousin. I still suggest using as many local ingredients as possible, just adding these unique flavors to spice up Spring.
Za’atar
Za’atar is a wild herb that grows in the mountains in the eastern Mediterranean and tastes somewhere between thyme, oregano and savory. It’s usually combined with salt, sumac and sesame seeds. The name can also refer to a blend made from ingredients like thyme, oregano, savory, dill, orange zest, along with the sesame seeds and sumac. You can find it in the spice aisle of markets that carry Middle Eastern spices. Making your own, however, will give a just-toasted freshness that you can’t get in pre-made versions.
Za’atar is often mixed with olive oil and used as a spread for bread. Sometimes this blend is given to students before taking tests, because various cultures believe that it can strengthen and clear the mind. Use it as a seasoning for meats and vegetables, or sprinkle it on hummus.
Basic za’atar-style spice blend
1/2 cup Mediterranean thyme or summer savory
1/4 cup sumac
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
In a spice grinder, combine the thyme or savory, sumac, salt and sesame seeds; grind to a fine powder. Keep in a sealed jar in a cool, dark and dry place. It should keep up to two months; makes about 3/4 cup.
Crispy za’atar pinwheels
These addictive snacks can be made up to three days in advance and stored in an airtight container at room temperature. Recipe from “Spice” by Ann Sortun; makes about 3 dozen.
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 pound chilled cream cheese, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 sticks cold unsalted butter, cut into half-inch pieces
3/4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons za’atar
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. In a standing mixer, fitted with a paddle, beat the flour with the cream cheese, butter and salt at low speed until dough just comes together, about 1 minute. Transfer dough to a lightly floured surface; knead until smooth. Divide dough in half and pat each piece into a rectangle. Roll out each piece to a 10-by-18-inch rectangle, about 1/8-inch thick. Sprinkle za’atar evenly over dough; gently roll over za’atar with a rolling pin so it adheres.
Working from a long side of each rectangle, very loosely roll up the dough; trim off rough ends. Cut rolls crosswise into 3/4-inch-thick slices; arrange on prepared baking sheets. Refrigerate for 30 minutes or until chilled. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bake pinwheels about 25 minutes, until golden brown. Cool slightly, then serve warm or at room temperature.
Za’atar and lemon grilled chicken
Here’s an easy version of a chicken dish that traditionally uses bricks to flatten the meat. Recipe from Sunset magazine; makes 4 servings.
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons each: Za’atar and lemon juice
1 teaspoon each: lemon zest and minced garlic
1/4 teaspoon each: salt and pepper
4 chicken thighs (6 to 8 oz. each)
1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges
8 green onions
In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, za’atar, lemon juice, zest, garlic, salt and pepper. Add chicken pieces; turn to coat well. Heat a grill to medium (350-450 degrees) and grill chicken, skin side down, until browned, about 5 to 8 minutes. Move chicken to a cooler spot if any flare-ups occur. Turn chicken; grill until cooked through, about 4 minutes more. Grill lemon wedges and onions in the last few minutes, turning once, just until grill marks appear. Serve warm.
Dukka
Dukka is a fragrant and nutty Egyptian-style blend of toasted nuts and seeds that is also served with olive oil and crusty bread, or sprinkled on potatoes and other vegetables. It works well as a delicious crust for lamb, chicken and fish. There are many versions; many cooks create their own “house Dukka” blend, adding ingredients like mint, dried thyme or peppers.
Basic dukka-style spice blend
1 cup whole blanched almonds or hazelnuts
1/3 cup whole coriander seeds
3 Tablespoons whole cumin seeds
1 teaspoon Kosher salt or coarse sea salt
2 Tablespoons sumac
1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place nuts on a baking sheet; toast 5 to 7 minutes until light brown and fragrant. Transfer nuts to a bowl. In a skillet on medium-low heat, toast coriander, cumin and salt for 3 minutes, swirling pan constantly, until light brown and fragrant; transfer to bowl and cool. In a food processor, coarsely grind the nuts, seed mixture and sumac, careful not to over-process. You want the ingredients to break down into very small pieces, but not a paste. Stir in sesame seeds. Store mixture in an airtight container.
Roasted carrots with feta and dukka
1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced in half vertically
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese
1/4 cup Dukka
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss carrots in the olive oil and place in single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roast carrots for about 20 minutes or until they are just fork tender. Place on a serving dish; top with crumbled feta and sprinkle with the dukka. Serve warm.