Time for corn season

Subscribe Now Choose a package that suits your preferences.
Start Free Account Get access to 7 premium stories every month for FREE!
Already a Subscriber? Current print subscriber? Activate your complimentary Digital account.

As a kid in the Midwest, I always enjoyed watching the corn growing from wee sprouts to magnificent stalks in our backyard garden. The local saying was, “Knee high by the Fourth of July,” and since my little knees were fairly close to the ground, this gardener’s mantra was usually true for me.

Every kid knew that it was a no-no to pull the husks back from the ear of corn until it was ready to drop into a pot of boiling water or get thrown on a hot grill. Exposing those tender sweet kernels to air and light only served to hasten the conversion of sugar to starch, robbing the eater of true, pure sweet corn flavor.

Most of us are relegated to buying fresh corn in markets. How do you know you’ve got a good ear? Test by popping a kernel with a fingernail. It should spurt its milky juice. The silk should be brown and slightly dry, indicating ripe corn. If you peek at the top of the cob, it should be round, not pointed.

Fresh corn offers vitamins A and C, as well as carbohydrates, some incomplete protein, and minerals. Whether you prefer “Super Sweet,” “Double Diamond,” “Peaches and Cream,” or just good ol’ domestic yellow or white, now is the time to enjoy fresh corn at the height of the season, and these recipes can get you motivated.

Old fashioned corn relish

Pair this sweet-sour-crunchy relish with time-tested picnic fare like fried chicken, cold cuts, grilled sausages, potato salad, and sliced tomatoes. It can be made ahead and refrigerated up to 3-4 days. Recipe from “Chutneys &Relishes” by Lorraine Bodger; makes about 1 1/2 cups.

3 medium ears fresh sweet corn

3/4 cup finely chopped white cabbage

1/4 cup minced celery

1/4 cup minced green bell pepper

1/4 cup minced onion

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1/2 cup water

3 tablespoons packed brown sugar

1 teaspoon powdered mustard

3/4 teaspoon celery seeds

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon salt

Break each ear of corn in half. Using a serrated knife, cut kernels from each piece, careful to avoid the tough membranes at the base of the kernels. Place cut kernels in a medium saucepan. Add remaining ingredients; bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Simmer uncovered about 30 minutes, until liquid is almost evaporated and vegetables are tender. Let cool, then refrigerate before serving. Serve slightly chilled but not icy cold.

Corn and snap pea salad

In a half hour you can put together this colorful and crunchy salad. Recipe from “Everyday Food” magazine by Martha Stewart Living; makes 8 servings. Double everything if more servings needed.

2 1/2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 3-4 ears)

4 cups trimmed snap peas (1 pound)

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/3 cup loosely packed, thinly sliced fresh mint

1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions

2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large pot of boiling water, cook corn kernels and snap peas until crisp-tender, about 5-6 minutes. Drain, then rinse under cold water and dry. Transfer to large serving container. Add remaining ingredients; season with salt and pepper to taste. Chill under ready to serve.

Double corn and green chili muffins

Corn and chilies come together in yet another form: savory muffins. Elizabeth Alston, author of “Muffins,” says these are delicious as a snack with beer or with a salad. Makes 12 regular muffins.

1 1/2 cups yellow corn meal

1/2 cup all purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 large eggs

1 cup sour cream

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted

3 cups corn kernels

4 ounces (1 cup) coarsely grated sharp cheddar cheese

1/4 cup chopped green chilies (canned is OK)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line regular muffin cups with foil or paper baking cups. Thoroughly mix corn meal, flour, baking powder, salt and pepper in a large bowl. In a separate medium bowl, whisk eggs and sour cream; whisk in butter. Stir in corn, cheese and chilies. Pour wet mixture over dry ingredients and fold in with a rubber spatula until dry ingredients are moistened. Scoop batter into muffin cups. Bake 25-30 minutes or until no longer moist in the centers. Let cool a few minutes before serving.

Sweet corncakes

No heavy coating or deep frying gets in the way of the delicate fresh corn flavor. You can make these a day before, wrap in foil and serve room temperature or reheat, in foil, at 300 degrees for about 15 minutes. Recipe from “Almost Vegetarian” by Diana Shaw; makes 4-8 cakes.

3 ears fresh corn, shucked at last minute

2 large eggs

1 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Pinch of each: sugar, ground cumin, salt

Bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat; plunge corn into it. Cover; when water returns to a boil, turn off heat and let corn sit for 5 minutes. Using tongs, life out corn; rinse with cold water to cool. Scrape kernels off cobs and put them into a food processor. Add eggs and flour; process in short pulses until mixture is still coarse in texture but even in color and well combined. Stir in sugar, cumin and salt. Rub a little olive oil over surface of a heavy nonstick pan or griddle; heat until a bit of batter dropped on the surface bubbles in the center and browns on the bottom. Pour 3 tablespoons batter into pan or griddle. When bubbles form on the surface and bottom has browned (about 3-4 minutes) flip it over using a nonmetallic spatula. Brown the other side, about 3-4 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and cover with foil to keep warm; repeat until you’ve used up all the batter. Serve topped with sour cream, yogurt or fresh salsa of your choice.