WAIMEA — Last Monday, Sandwich Isle Bread Company quietly opened the doors of their new bakery, forging a link in Waimea’s food chain and filling the air with seductive scents of fresh bread, hot coffee and croissants.
“The idea always was to be your village baker and be part of everybody’s meals,” said Kay Cabrera, baker and co-owner, with husband Kevin and daughter, Morgan. “We wanted to be available for people as they go to work and then when they’re going home to pick up their cakes and desserts for dinner.”
Located in the former Leilani Bakery in Waimea Center, the Cabreras and their team offer a daily selection of pastries, cookies, tarts, cakes and various goodies, plus the crusty artisan breads the community has come to love. They also serve 100 percent Kona Coffee from Downe’s Grounds, a 30-year-old family farm in Holualoa.
Kevin and Kay are both professional bakers, originally from the West Coast. They came to the island in the 1970s and opened the popular — and still fondly remembered — Kay’s Creations in Hilo. About 10 years and two children later, they relocated to the west side, working in resort kitchens and raising their family. Kay continued to bake custom cakes, and was soon in demand by top tier wedding planners, caterers and hotels.
In 2008, Kevin took a major step and left his hotel position to bake the kind of authentic breads he’d always wanted to bake. With his wood-fire Panyol oven and trailer that he and a group of friends built, he traveled to farmers markets as a self-proclaimed “itinerant baker.” The Waimea Town Market was just starting up at Parker School, and Kevin, along with Kekela Farms, became the anchors for what is now a bustling Saturday morning food fest.
Not long after, Kay made the decision to work alongside Kevin, adding her distinctive cookies, tarts, biscotti and other pastries to the market selection. Demand grew, along with a super loyal following from around the island, who would travel to Waimea specifically to seek out Sandwich Isle.
They worked out of the Tropical Dreams facility in Lalamilo for eight years, and — in a time where the economy was shrinking — were able to purchase more equipment and hired several employees to help their business expand. Their daughter, Morgan, came home to help in 2012, learning the trade and becoming proficient.
“I got it from my family,” she said. “I like it because there’s so much learn. We’re always doing turnovers, but the dough is a little different and the filling is a little different. It’s never monotonous.”
Morgan adds her artistic flair to the operation, creating signage for the storefront and creative touches to cookies and cakes, in addition to her baking.
Last November, as the time came to leave Tropical Dreams, the Leilani spot became available, and the Cabrera ohana decided to give Sandwich Isle a more permanent home. But opening the doors was no piece of cake.
“We thought ‘this is no problem; it will be a breeze,’” Morgan said with a smile.
A fairly arduous journey followed, beginning with a small plumbing job that required an architect, and drawings submitted to the Building Department — during the peak holiday baking season. From there, it was a long dance between architect, general contractor, plumbers, electricians, equipment movers and installers and almost-endless paperwork.
“It was like we had to get a permit to get permission to get all our permits,” Morgan said.
The icing on the cake came almost eight months after they started. As the Cabreras were ready for their final inspection last month, the shop’s ceiling collapsed. Once again, they rolled up their sleeves, got out the mops, and were able to pass inspection and open the doors July 10.
“Every single person we had contact with was kind and as helpful as they could be,” Kay said. “It’s not the people, it’s the process.”
“It was an adventure,” Kevin added. “All that’s behind us now. All the strife and ‘why is this happening?’ Now it’s us figuring out our customers and having a store again after 33 years. We were working for other people, then for ourselves and now we’re back in the retail world.”
The new shop takes the business into the next generation.
“We asked Morgan if it was something she wanted to do, and she said yes,” Kevin said. “And that was great. Now it’s a family endeavor.”
Kevin’s wood-fired ovens are on sabbatical at the moment, until a suitable location is available. Ideally, he needs an outdoor space in Waimea with screened-in environment, access to water and electricity, in a place where smoke would not be a problem.
Meanwhile, the new Sandwich Isle is rolling out tried-and-true favorites and new creative treats to tempt their expanding fan base. Coming soon will be more custom cakes, along with ice cream sandwiches made with Tropical Dreams Ice Cream.
Sandwich Isle Bread Company is located in the Waimea Center between Jade Palace Restaurant and Pony Express. Hours are 6 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday-Friday. Hours may be adjusted according to customer needs. For special orders and more information, visit www.sandwichislebread.com or call 989-9655.