Do you have a little jar of tiny green capers hiding somewhere in your refrigerator? Most home cooks will buy them when needed in a recipe for, perhaps, a dinner party. Then the little vessel is gradually shoved to the back of a shelf, only to be discovered about two years later.
Are they still good to use? Maybe, since they are preserved in vinegar and salt. It’s a shame to let them sit so long, though, since they add a piquant, pungent flavor much bigger than their size.
Many sauces and condiments call for capers; they are compatible in seafood dishes as well as the ubiquitous Veal or Chicken Piccata, made with lemon, white wine and capers — a classic combination. Add a spoonful of capers to tuna or bean salads or mashed potatoes for an extra zest.
Those tiny capers are actually the buds of a flower from a bush growing in the Mediterranean and Asia. The smaller ones from southern France, called “nonpareil” are considered to be the best. Try a few of these recipes and discover how much flavor can come from a tiny jar.
Classic Caponata
This sweet-and-sour eggplant dish from Italy is served at room temperature in antipasto platters or with toasted bread slices. It’s best made a day ahead to let the flavors blend. Recipe from “Mediterrainean The Beautiful Cookbook” by Joyce Goldstein; makes 6 to 8 servings.
2 eggplants, cut into 1-inch dice
Salt
2 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 cups olive oil
1 cup diced celery
3 onions, chopped 1/4-inch thick
1 cup tomato puree
3 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained
12 black and/or green olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
1/4 cup pine nuts or slivered almonds, toasted
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons raisins (optional)
Fresh ground pepper
Sprinkle eggplant with salt; place in a colander to drain for about an hour. Rinse and pat dry. In a small saute pan over medium heat, warm the 2 tablespoons olive oil; add celery and saute briefly (should still be crisp) then set aside. In a wide saute pan over medium high heat, warm 1 cup of the oil. Add eggplant and saute, turning often, until golden and cooked, 15-20 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to paper towels to drain. In same pan, warm remaining 1/2 cup oil over medium-high heat. Add onions; saute 8-10 minutes until tender. Add reserved celery-tomato mixture; simmer 10 minutes. Add cooked eggplant, capers, olives, nuts, vinegar, sugar, and raisins (if using); stir well and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve at room temperature.
Caper Topping for Grilled Sausages
Try this easy condiment on hot dos or brats. Recipe from Better Homes &Gardens magazine.
1 handful capers, coarsely chopped
1 or 2 finely chopped tomatoes
Half of a sweet onion, finely chopped
1 cup chopped cabbage
Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Toss and adjust ingredient proportions to taste. Refrigerate any leftovers.
Tapenade
From Provence comes this intensely flavored spread to serve with slices of baguette or on halved hard-boiled eggs. Recipe from “The Classic Mediterranean Cookbook” by Sarah Woodward.
1/2 cup capers, soaked in water for 20 minutes
1 cup pitted small black olives
Pinch of dried thyme
1/2 dried bay leaf, crumbled
1 clove, ground
Salt and black pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Squeeze of fresh lemon juice
Drain capers; dry on paper towels. Place capers in a food processor with remaining ingredients; blend to a smooth paste. Spread on slices of thin-cut baguette that have been toasted until golden brown. Leftover tapenade will keep for several days in the refrigerator if covered with a thin layer of olive oil.
Tomato, Caper and Olive Dressing
Full flavored for vegetable salads and pasta, this recipe from “The Cook’s Bible” makes about 1 1/2 cups dressing.
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium tomato, seeded and finely chopped
2 teaspoons capers, rinsed
2 teaspoons finely chopped imported black olives
1 tablespoon minced fresh basil
Salt and fresh ground black pepper
In a bowl, whisk together the mustard, garlic and vinegar. Slowly add the oil; whisk until an emulsion forms. Lightly whisk in remaining ingredients. Add salt and pepper to taste. Let sit at room temperature for 1 hour to blend.
Caper-lemon Mayonnaise
This easy condiment, adapted from “Stonewall Kitchen Favorites” by Jonathan King and Jim Stott, was created to serve in sandwiches of fillet of sole piccata style. Makes enough for 4 servings.
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/4 cup capers, rinsed and patted dry
1/8 cup fresh lemon juice
Fresh ground black pepper
In a small bowl, combine ingredients until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use, and up to 2 days.