Kim Jong Un walks south to meet his rival: Can they deal?

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A man watches the North side from the unification observatory in Paju, near the border with North Korea, South Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon Jae-in will plant a commemorative tree and inspect an honor guard together after Kim walks across the border Friday for their historic summit, Seoul officials said Thursday. (AP Photo/Ahn Young-joon)
North Korean soldiers, center, walk, as South Korean soldiers stand, bottom, at the border village of Panmunjom in the Demilitarized Zone, South Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon Jae-in will plant a commemorative tree and inspect an honor guard together after Kim walks across the border Friday for their historic summit, Seoul officials said Thursday.(Hwang Kwang-mo/Yonhap via AP)
Four North Korean soldiers, center far, and four South Korean soldiers, right and left, stand at the border village of Panmunjom in the Demilitarized Zone, South Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon Jae-in will plant a commemorative tree and inspect an honor guard together after Kim walks across the border Friday for their historic summit, Seoul officials said Thursday.(Hwang Kwang-mo/Yonhap via AP)
Elementary school students read banners placed on a barbed wire fence with messages wishing for the reunification of the two Koreas at the Imjingak Pavilion in Paju, South Korea, near the border with North Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon-Jae-in will plant a commemorative tree and inspect an honor guard together after Kim walks across the border Friday for their historic summit, Seoul officials said Thursday. (AP Photo/Ahn Young-joon)
Members of the South Korean women's peace group stage a rally to support the upcoming summit between South and North Korea at the Imjingak Pavilion in Paju, South Korea, near the border with North Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon-Jae-in will plant a commemorative tree and inspect an honor guard together after Kim walks across the border Friday for their historic summit, Seoul officials said Thursday. (AP Photo/Ahn Young-joon)
A South Korean military vehicle passes by unification flags near Unification Bridge, which leads to the Panmunjom in Paju, South Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon-Jae-in will plant a commemorative tree and inspect an honor guard together after Kim walks across the border Friday for their historic summit, Seoul officials said Thursday. (AP Photo/Ahn Young-joon)
A South Korean army soldier, center, talks with police officers as they stand guard at Unification Bridge, which leads to Panmunjom in Paju, South Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon-Jae-in will plant a commemorative tree and inspect an honor guard together after Kim walks across the border Friday for their historic summit, Seoul officials said Thursday. (AP Photo/Ahn Young-joon)
A banner showing the pictures of South Korean President Moon Jae-in, left, and North Korean leader Kim Jong Un to welcome the planned summit between South and North Koreas is seen near the presidential Blue House in Seoul, South Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. Seoul says North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon-Jae-in will plant a tree together and inspect an honor guard after Kim walks across the border for the leaders' historic summit. The letters read " Peace, A New Start." (AP Photo/Lee Jin-man)
South Koreans hold unification flags to welcome the planned summit between South Korean President Moon Jae-in and North Korean leader Kim Jong Un near the presidential Blue House in Seoul, South Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. Seoul says North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon-Jae-in will plant a tree together and inspect an honor guard after Kim walks across the border for the leaders' historic summit. (AP Photo/Lee Jin-man)
South Koreans pose for the media as they hold a banner showing the pictures of South Korean President Moon Jae-in, left, and North Korean leader Kim Jong Un to welcome the planned summit between South and North Koreas near the presidential Blue House in Seoul, South Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. Seoul says North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon-Jae-in will plant a tree together and inspect an honor guard after Kim walks across the border for the leaders' historic summit. The letters read " Peace, A New Start." (AP Photo/Lee Jin-man)
South Koreans hold a banner showing the pictures of South Korean President Moon Jae-in, left, and North Korean leader Kim Jong Un to welcome the planned summit between South and North Koreas near the presidential Blue House in Seoul, South Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. Seoul says North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon-Jae-in will plant a tree together and inspect an honor guard after Kim walks across the border for the leaders' historic summit. The letters read " Peace, A New Start." (AP Photo/Lee Jin-man)
South Korean President Moon Jae-in's chief of staff Im Jong-seok speaks during a press conference in Goyang, South Korea, Thursday, April 26, 2018. Seoul says North Korean leader Kim Jong Un and South Korean President Moon Jae-in will plant a tree together and inspect an honor guard after Kim walks across the border for the leaders' historic summit. The signs read: " Peace, A News Start and summit between South and North Korea." (AP Photo/Ahn Young-joon)
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GOYANG, South Korea— There will be plenty to gawk at Friday when North Korean leader Kim Jong Un walks south across the world’s most heavily armed border and stands face-to-face with South Korean President Moon Jae-in. Two men who seemed on the verge of war months ago will take a pleasant walk, plant a commemorative tree, inspect an honor guard and belly-up to a lavish banquet.

What’s less clear is whether the rivals can make any progress on the only thing the world really cares about: North Korea’s growing arsenal of nuclear weapons.

The North likely still has work to do before it perfects the finer technological points on its long-range nukes, but there’s little question that it stands on the threshold of becoming what Kim says his nation already is: A nuclear weapons power.

Friday’s summit will be the clearest sign yet of whether it’s possible to peacefully negotiate those weapons away from a country that has spent decades doggedly building its bombs despite crippling sanctions and near-constant international opprobrium.

Expectations are generally low, given that past so-called breakthroughs on North Korea’s weapons have collapsed amid acrimonious charges of cheating and bad faith. Skeptics of engagement have long said that the North often turns to interminable rounds of diplomacy meant to ease the pain of sanctions, give it time to perfect its weapons, and win aid for unfulfilled nuclear promises.

Advocates of engagement say the only way to get a deal is to do what the Koreas will try Friday: Sit down and see what’s possible.

Moon, a liberal whose election last year ended a decade of conservative rule in Seoul, will be looking to make some headway on the North’s nuclear bombs in advance of a planned summit in several weeks between Kim and U.S. President Donald Trump. Kim, the third member of his family to rule his nation with absolute power, is eager, both in this meeting and in the Trump talks, to talk about the nearly 30,000 heavily armed U.S. troops stationed in South Korea and the lack of a formal peace treaty ending the Korea War — two factors, the North says, that make nuclear weapons necessary.

North Korea may also be looking to use whatever happens in the talks with Moon to set up the Trump summit, which it may see as a way to legitimize its declared status as a nuclear power.

One possible outcome Friday, aside from a rise in general goodwill between the countries, could be a proposal for a North Korean freeze of its weapons ahead of later denuclearization. Seoul and Washington will be pushing for any freeze to be accompanied by rigorous and unfettered outside inspections of the North’s nuclear facilities, since past deals have crumbled because of North Korea’s unwillingness to open up to snooping foreigners.

South Korea, in announcing Thursday some details of the leaders’ meeting, acknowledged that the most difficult sticking point between the Koreas has been North Korea’s level of denuclearization commitment. Kim has reportedly said that he wouldn’t need nuclear weapons if his government’s security could be guaranteed and external threats were removed.

Whatever the Koreas announce Friday, the spectacle of Kim being feted on South Korean soil will be something to behold. Kim and Moon will be enjoying each other’s company in the jointly controlled village of Panmunjom near the spot where a defecting North Korean soldier recently fled south in a hail of bullets fired by his former comrades.