SOUTH KONA — Nathan Hunter returned to the South Kona farm on which he was raised to help his family decide what to do after his father’s death.
He chose then to change his life, leave his work in San Francisco and move back to Kona to take up his dad’s role as farmer and fisherman.
“It wasn’t until I moved away from Hawaii that I realized how truly bountiful it is,” Nathan reflected.
Nathan’s parents bought the farm in South Kona in 1997. Though he and his sister were born on the East Coast where his father and mother were involved in commercial fishing, the family moved to Hawaii when they learned about small-time fishing opportunities here.
Growing up in West Hawaii, Nathan was taught by his father, Brad, how to fish and care for the exotic fruit on their farm. Adding those early lessons to his later experiences in restaurants made Nathan adept at creating delicious and nutritious meals from a variety of fresh ingredients.
Nathan’s partner, Lauren Anzalone, worked with him in some of San Francisco’s high-end restaurants and loved the idea of moving to Hawaii to explore the ingredients available and imagine ways to use them. With some early childhood experience of gardening with her grandmother, Lauren was game to join in the farming adventure as well.
These two akamai young people are full of ideas, dreams and concrete plans for finding new ways to make farming work for them.
“My dad was always learning and trying new things. Now it’s my turn to explore what Hawaii has to offer,” Nathan said.
WHERE TO FIND THEM
They are off and running. The pair can be found every Saturday at the Hunter Family Farm booth at the Keauhou Farmer’s Market. Their booth hums with customers who come for their fresh-caught fish as well as the exotic fruit and interesting value-added products like fish ceviche and unusual juice combinations.
Recently they decided to hold a small Supper Club of friends and supporters to try out some of their recipe ideas using locally sourced ingredients. Their farm to table Supper Club’s first event started with a raw tuna crudo and a lilikoi fennel cocktail. Local octopus, shrimp, kabocha squash and papaya seed were also among the ingredients used in the five-course menu. Even the dessert was made from Kona Origins chocolate, local eggs and Hawaiian sea salt.
“Our focus is to create dishes that are delicious, fresh and unique from ingredients we can find locally,” Lauren said of their intentions.
Lauren’s creative bent for making tasty combinations leads her to seek unique uses for their produce.
As we discussed some of her original ideas for using locally grown ingredients, Lauren asked if I had tasted an avocado daiquiri. Captivated by the idea, I insisted on the recipe and was delighted with the result.
The daiquiri is made with 1½ ounces of rum, ½ ounce of lime juice and ½ ounce of simple syrup mixed in a cocktail shaker with ice and slices from a half an avocado. Shake them together vigorously and double strain the light green liquid into a cocktail glass garnished with a salt and pepper rim. It’s surprisingly tasty and a very unique color.
Lauren’s experience in high-end restaurants has taught her the value of fresh seasonal ingredients. She is thrilled to try dishes that contain some underused local seafood like octopus and uni (sea urchin) as well as the sweet shrimp and abalone that are farmed sustainably in Hawaiian waters.
“I love walking around the property and gathering flowers, fruit, vegetables and herbs, then coming home to create a meal from our harvest,” she said.
Lauren is also active in agriculture off the farm. She is currently the president of the Kona County Farm Bureau.
When asked what motivated her to work with the Hawaii Farm Bureau Federation, she responded, “I see my Farm Bureau involvement as a way to participate in political action that supports small farmers throughout the state.”
MORE FARM, MORE TABLES
Both Lauren and Nathan enjoy finding ways to make dishes with underutilized crops like kohlrabi, ulu, mamey sapote, abiu and rambutan. With a bounty of tangelo, ginger, lilikoi and other citrus on their farm they have excellent ingredients to add flavor to the dishes they create using their products as well as those from other farms.
And they were delighted to find uses for Shelia’s fennel and Mike’s watermelon radishes at their last Supper Club.
Instilled with the desire to find new and interesting ways to farm, fish and add value to their products, this pair are anxious to try a series of Supper Clubs. They see that very few restaurants in West Hawaii use local ingredients creatively while offering a place for the community to gather and enjoy a beautiful place along with a delicious meal.
They are currently seeking venues for future Supper Clubs and are always open to hearing from community members who are interested in what, where and how their plans are developing.
For their first venture, they were really happy that their family and friends pitched in to help. Nathan’s mother Leigh and his sister Emily both came from California to Kona to help them launch their first Supper Club.
Nathan and Lauren are dedicated to the farm to table concept as a way to support the local economy including local farmers. They also see their Supper Clubs as a creative way to participate in environmental and cultural preservation here in Hawaii.
Governed by a spirit of generosity and dedicated to sustainability and the opportunity to offer good food as good medicine, these two smart, entrepreneurial young people offer hope for a viable future for agriculture and farmers here in West Hawaii.
Diana Duff is a plant adviser, educator and consultant living in a dryland forest north of Kailua-Kona.
Gardening Events
Monday: Hawaii Tropical Fruit Growers Monthly Meeting from 7-9 p.m. at West Hawaii Tropical Fruit Growers office 81-6393 Mamalahoa Highway in Kealakekua. White wooden building on makai side across from the Department of Transportation yard. Park in front or on the north side. Brian Lievens and Ken Love will do an avocado “talk story.” Bring your avos for ID. Non-members are welcome to attend. Members and guests are encouraged to bring fruit to share. For more information contact Brian Lievens President West Hawaii Chapter at 895-8753 or greenwizard@hawaii.rr.com.
Saturday: “13th Annual Avocado Festival” from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at Hale Halawai on the oceanfront in Kailua-Kona. Avocado grafting demonstrations, growing information and tasting. Arts &crafts vendors, community information booths, food and music. Fun for the family. Go to www.AvocadoFestival.org for more information.
“Work Day at Amy Greenwell Garden” from 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Meet at the Garden Visitor Center across from the Manago Hotel in Captain Cook. Volunteers will be able to help with garden maintenance and are invited to bring a brown bag lunch. Water and snacks provided. Call Peter at 323-3318 for more information.
Saturday, March 2: “Caring for Orchids” from 10 to 11:30 a.m. at the Kailua-Kona Public Library at 75-138 Hualalai Road with Phoenicia Zeller. A free presentation as part of the Community Seed Library monthly series. Learn proper techniques for the health and beauty of your orchids. Bring sick plants and questions. For more information call the library at 327-4327.
Farmer Direct Markets
Wednesday: “Ho’oulu Farmers Market” 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Sheraton Kona Resort &Spa at Keauhou Bay
Saturday: “Keauhou Farmers Market” 8 a.m. to noon at Keauhou Shopping Center
“Kamuela Farmer’s Market” from 7 a.m. to noon at Pukalani Stables
“Waimea Town Market” from 7:30 a.m. to noon at the Parker School in central Waimea
“Waimea Homestead Farmers Market” from 7 a.m. to noon at the Waimea Middle and Elementary School Playground
Sunday: “Pure Kona Green Market” 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Amy Greenwell Garden in Captain Cook
“Hamakua Harvest” 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Highway 19 and Mamane Street in Honokaa
Plant Advice Lines
Anytime: konamg@ctahr.hawaii.edu
Tuesdays and Thursdays: 9 a.m. to noon at UH-CES in Kainaliu – 322-4893
Mondays and Fridays: 9 a.m. to noon at UH CES at Komohana in Hilo 981-5199