Some foodies say that chili crisp may replace sriracha as the next condiment as it is more complex. Chili crisp incorporates aromatics and other ingredients that are fried until they are crunchy.
It is often found as a condiment at Chinese restaurants. In southern China, it is simmered in oil while in the north, it is more common to pour hot oil over the ingredients.
In 1997, Chinese restaurateur Tao Huabi started the first commercial production of chili crisp in Guizhou under the Lao Gan Ma brand.
I received a couple of bottles of Momofuku chili crunch with black truffle from my son Dean and have been enjoying it on all kinds of foods, including on eggs and cooked vegetables. But other ways to enjoy chili crisp include on ramen, avocado toast, with fish, or with vanilla ice cream.
According to Lan Lam, a test cook, recipe developer and senior editor for Cook’s Illustrated magazine, “Many chili crisps contain glutamate-rich preserved black beans; they add a subtle fullness and help the chili crisp flavor linger on the palate.” Lam can’t think of another condiment that does so much.
According to Nick Cobarruvias, chef at the San Francisco restaurant Otra, he claims the crunch could come from fried garlic pieces and other alluims, but when he makes his own, he uses roasted and crushed peanuts, soybeans and sesame seeds for the added crunch.
Here is Bon Appetit’s recipe for chili crisp
Homemade Chili Crisp
Pulverize 1/2 cup dried red chiles into little flakes in a food processor or spice grinder. If you do not have whole chiles, substitute with about 1/3 cup crushed red pepper flakers. Smash 1/4 – 1/3 cup roasted and salted soybeans (more soybeans = more crunch) into randomly-sized pieces with a flat of a knife or rolling pin. It’s okay — even good — if some remain whole while others are closer to the size of rice grains. If you don’t have soybeans on hand, you can use roasted and salted peanuts; the crisp will crunch just as well.
Heat 3/4 cup vegetable, soybean or peanut oil in a saucepan over medium-high. Once the oil is hot, reduce the heat to medium, add 1/2 cup minced dried onion or shallot and 2 teaspoons salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until the alliums are brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the chile flakes, soybeans or peanuts, and 1 teaspoon sugar. Add 1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns, if you crave that tingling sensation. Cook for about a minute to release the spicy flavors. If you want to amp the heat, simmer for about 3 to 5 minutes more, until the oil looks redder and redder. Add a splash of sesame oil for extra fragrance. Turn off the heat and stir in 2 teaspoons sesame seeds, if you are using them
Here is another recipe, a bit more complex, with lots of various flavors.
Homemade Chili Crisp
1-1/2 cups vegetable oil
1-1/2 shallots, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
6 whole whole star anise pods
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/4 cup red pepper flakes
1 (1-1/2 inch) piece ginger, or more to taste, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons white sugar
1 teaspoon shiitake mushroom powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
Bring oil, shallots, garlic, star anise and cinnamon to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Continue simmering, swishing oil around occasionally, until garlic and shallot are browned, about 20 minutes.
Mix red pepper flakes, ginger, soy sauce, sugar, mushroom powder and salt together in a medium bowl.
Strain shallot mixture through a fine mesh sieve over red pepper flake mixture. Let garlic and shallot pieces cool in the sieve, then stir them back into the infused oil. Discard star anise.
Pour into a glass container with a secure top; chill until ready to use.
Here is a recipe using chili crisp to flavor this noodle dish.
Noodles with Cucumbers and Chili Crisp
Serves 3
4 English or Japanese cucumbers, cut into 1/4-inch rounds
1 teaspoon kosher salt
6 ounces dry ramen, or rice or soba noodles
3 tablespoons chili crisp, plus more to taste
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
2 teaspoons sugar
1 large clove garlic, minced
Salt the cucumbers: place the cucumbers in a colander set over a large bowl or in the sink, and sprinkle in the salt. Toss to combine and let sit for at least 15 minutes. The salt will draw out the water from the cucumbers.
Meanwhile, cook the noodles: set a medium pot with water over high heat. Once it comes up to a boil, cook the noodles until al dente following package directions. Drain them into a colander placed in the sink, and rinse with cold running water until cool to the touch. Leave them in the sink to drain well.
Dress the cucumbers: tap the colander with the cucumbers inside the sink and drain as much liquid as possible. Discard the drained water. Add the chili crisp, sesame oil, sesame seeds, sugar, and garlic. Toss well to evenly coat the cucumbers with the dressing.
Add the noodles: add the drained noodles and toss to combine. Taste and add more chili crisp, sesame oil, or sugar according to your own taste. Serve at room temperature or cold.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 2 days.
Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.