Uncle Miles Kitchen departs Hilo airport

Courtesy of Denise Nakanishi Denise Nakanishi, center, and staff of Uncle Miles Kitchen pose for a photo on the last day of business before vacating the Hilo International Airport on Wednesday, Feb. 28, 2024.
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After 15 years of serving travelers, Uncle Miles Kitchen has closed at the Hilo International Airport.

Uncle Miles Kitchen opened in the airport in 2009 and was operated by Denise and Miles Nakanishi. The food-and-drink stand became a popular place for local travelers to grab a snack and a beverage and talk story before traveling to another island for appointments or work.

Miles Nakanishi had wanted to open the food stand for years so he could do his favorite things — talk story and serve food.

Unfortunately, that all changed when he was tragically killed in a car accident in 2012.

“Miles was a chef, and all he wanted to do was feed everybody,” Denise Nakanishi said. “He catered for the Merrie Monarch TV crew for years,and he always walked around with a musubi in his pocket for those in need. Everybody knew Miles and everybody loved him. This business was my husband’s dream in his retirement, and he put so much into it, which is why I stayed open. Even through the most challenging time of my life.”

While devastated by her husband’s passing, Nakanishi continued to operate the food stand, which became a consistent airport stop for frequent local travelers.

In 2019, Uncle Miles Kitchen’s 10-year contract with the airport went up for bid and was eventually acquired by Sodexo, a corporation that provides facilities and food services in places like universities, hospitals and airports.

According to Russell Pang, the state Department of Transportation public information officer, the restaurant and lounge concession areas in the Hilo International Airport and the Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport have been under contract with Volume Services Inc., doing business as Sodexo Live!, since March 10, 2023.

Nakanishi was a sublessee under the concessionaire and was under a month-to-month contract. At the end of January, she was given the 30-day notice to vacate the space by Thursday, Feb. 29.

Uncle Miles had its last day of business on Wednesday, Feb. 28.

“It was shocking for me and for the staff. Especially after everything we went through during COVID-19, lava flows and my husband’s passing,” Nakanishi said. “It was just sad. We became close to the people who flew often, even knowing exactly what so many of them wanted every time they stopped in.”

According to Pang, Uncle Miles Kitchen was given the appropriate termination notice, and Sodexo took over operations of the space on March 1 and also expanded the operating hours.

Although Nakanishi vacated without issue, she wanted regular customers as well as longtime airport staff to know how grateful she is for their business and friendship over the years.

“It’s hard for many reasons. This is another example of local vendors being pushed out by a large corporation,” Nakanishi said. “But I think I’m mostly heartbroken because this was Miles’ business, and it’s hard to see it come to an end.

“When he was killed, the airport basically closed, and countless people drove through to the front to say goodbye to him,” Nakanishi continued. “We fostered good relationships here, had the best group of workers, and cherished every moment.”

Email Kelsey Walling at kwalling@hawaiitribune-herald.com.