Espresso granita is refreshing, but not too sweet

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Why mess with success? San Francisco’s Zuni Cafe follows the same basic recipe from Judy Rodgers’ 2002 “Zuni Cafe Cookbook” that you see here. Almost equal parts whipped cream and granita, it remains not overly sweet and qui te refreshing.

Be sure to start with a strong, rich espresso; do not use instant.

From the Zuni Cafe pastry kitchen; makes 8 servings.

2 1/2 cups freshly brewed espresso, at room temperature

3/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar, or more as needed

1 cup water

1/2 cup chilled heavy whipping cream

Kosher salt

Pour the espresso into a mixing bowl. Add 3/4 cup sugar and stir until dissolved. Taste it; it should seem a bit too sweet. If it doesn’t, add extra sugar by the 1/4 teaspoon until it does. Stir in the water. Pour into a shallow stainless-steel or glass pan that’s large enough so the mixture is no more than 1 inch deep. Freeze until solid; this may take up to 8 hours.

Choose a glass, plastic or metal container with a tight-fitting lid. Make sure it is dry, snap on the lid and place it in the freezer.

Once the espresso mixture has frozen solid, place the pan on a cool surface. Use a metal pastry scraper to cut a grid of evenly spaced lines, left to right and then top to bottom (to create squares). Use the scraper to gently toss the granita, then transfer it to the cold container. Cover and freeze for at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the heavy whipping cream, the 3 tablespoons of sugar and the salt in the bowl of a stand mixer or handheld electric mixer. Beat on medium-low speed until frothy, then on high speed until soft peaks form.

Just before serving, gently toss the granita with a large fork (to redistribute any separated sugar).

Layer the granita and dollops of whipped cream alternately, parfait-style, in chilled serving glasses. There should be almost as much whipped cream as granita. Serve right away.