How good was The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, wonderful and good.
We looked forward to it like Christmas, and when it came it was like Christmas morning. The TV announcers in the crisp, early dawn going around interviewing lifeguards, surfers, people from all over the island.
They’d ask, “So, why did you brave the traffic to get here?” and they’d reply, “It’s the Eddie! We had to be here.” They said it with a giggle, how us island folks do.
The sun was barely up, the sky rosy pink in the background, the TV guys jumping around with their island-style patter, keeping the excitement going.
They’d ask two ladies, “So when did you wake up to get here?” They’d say with a laugh, “We’ve been here all night, it’s the Eddie!”
Then the TV cameras panning along, showing laughing people bundled up like it was the Super Bowl or the Rose Parade. It was the most special event ever to hit the North Shore, and everywhere really.
And as the bright sun rose higher lighting the sand and sea, massive waves were rolling in like sweeping mountains rising higher and higher.
Everyone waited seven years for this day, the last one was 2016. Better than Christmas.
The TV people and everyone praising the great Eddie Aikau. What a hero he was, a legend in everyone’s heart.
Each surfer has one more story about him, always with awe and respect.
And high above, the TV helicopter was circling, showing the swelling crowds, standing room only on the beach, all before 8 a.m. when it began.
Suddenly the horn blares and seven slim surfers — six guys and a woman in the contest for the first time — leap into the churning white water and paddle for their lives. Stroking out to the roaring blue mountains charging in to devour them, but somehow every surfer makes it over the top. Hearts madly pounding.
The first surfer takes off and it’s insane! Huge, towering 40-foot wave rushing to eat him up with a million gallons of whitewater, but somehow he hangs on and makes it. The crowds cheer, echoing into the sky.
Then a slim woman surfer in a red shirt rode a calm, nice wave and kicked out. A tingling ran through everyone and they cheered, seeing the first woman to ever surf in this contest.
Then in the orange afternoon the last few surfers paddle in, with thousands of spectators hooting and whistling. The moment of glory for the winner. He stands with his maile lei, raising the trophy high.
All day long we watched The Eddie surf contest, hypnotized, mesmerized at the surfers charging and bumping down the towering waves.
On a relaxing Sunday we were all together on the beach at Waimea Bay, one big ohana.
And we forgot all the horrible stuff in the world, we were at The Eddie!
How good and wonderful is that?
Dennis Gregory writes a bi-monthly column for West Hawaii Today and welcomes your comments at makewavess@yahoo.com
