Shiso is a Japanese herb that can add interest to your garden and to your recipes. Known botanically as Perilla frutescens var. crispa, several types grow well here in Hawaii, with slightly different characteristics. The genus Perilla is a member of the large Lamiaceae or mint family that includes many familiar herbs including mints, basils, sages and oregano as well as the ornamental coleus. Some of shiso’s common names refer to her similarity to others in the family. Most of the mint family members, including shiso contain aromatic volatile oils that have a variety of aromas and uses.
Native to Southeast Asia, shiso has been cultivated in Japan and eastern Asia as an oilseed crop for centuries. Asian immigrants brought perilla plants to the United States in the late 1800s and it arrived in Hawaii around the same time. Perilla seeds are often included in Japanese Shichimi, a traditional chili pepper mixture established in the 17th century using a combination of seven spices. The leaves are also important in many Asian cultures for culinary as well as medicinal uses. All varieties grow easily as an annual in temperate climates and as a perennial in tropical climates. It’s ability to self-seed means it can spread rapidly in warm climates if not controlled. Today it can be found growing in sunny fields, along roadsides and in the open woodlands of many southern states; though it is found primarily in Japanese herb gardens here in Hawaii.
The leaves of the green perilla, known as ao shiso are often used whole to add flavor to sashimi or wrapped in Japanese sushi. The leaf of the cultivar with purple undersides has a pungent flavor similar to the green. The purple or red, aka shiso, adds color and a unique anise-like flavor to the pickling of plums or ginger. The flower spikes are also used to garnish or flavor many Asian dishes. The leaves, flowers or seeds of all types can add an interesting zest to many recipes. The oil has many commercial uses worldwide. In the U.S. it has been used to sweeten candies or sauces.
All perillas have the square stem characteristic of mint family members. They can grow close to the ground as herbs of about one foot fall or up to four feet as shrubs. The leaves may be either ruffled or serrated depending on the cultivar. When in flower, perilla plants will attract butterflies. The flower spikes can be as long as 10 inches bearing lots of small white or lavender flowers that leave their calyx in place to cover the seeds. The seeds can be crushed and the oil used for flavoring once they are dry and the stalks rattle when shaken.
Propagating shiso is easy from seed and seeds are widely available online. Several nurseries including Tropical Edibles in Captain Cook carry plants. Herb grower Kari Hagerman of Pomaikai Plants in Waimea has promised her current supply to Merriman’s Restaurant for use in several of their cocktails, but will have more in a few months. Check out Merriman’s She’s So Manhattan on their website for one of the recipes.
Perilla grows best in full sun in soil that drains well. The plants can tolerate some dry spells but will grow large and produce large tasty leaves when watered and fertilized regularly. The aromatic oils the plant produces help protect the plant against insects and diseases.
Perilla leaves are rich in calcium and iron and have medicinal uses in many cultures. The dried leaves can be made into tea as a healthy tonic and to treat respiratory ailments. The stems are a traditional Chinese remedy for digestive problems.
Beyond the culinary and medicinal benefits that perilla provides, it is also a very attractive plant. Whether you plant the red or green type, the ruffled leaves add color and texture and the plants oils add new aromas to your garden. Try growing some perilla this summer and delight in the attractive plants and their numerous uses.
Diana Duff is a plant adviser, educator and consultant living on an organic farm in Captain Cook.
Gardening Events
Tuesday: “Public Hearing on Hawaii Cacao &Chocolate Products” from 9:30 to 10:30 am at the West Hawaii Civic Center 74-5044 Ane Keohokalole Highway in Kailua-Kona. Discussion of and collection of testimony relating to proposed rules to Title 4, Subtitle 7, Chapter 138. Go to https://hdoa.hawaii.gov/meetings-reports/public-notices/ to view the public notice.
Saturday: “Amy Greenwell Garden Volunteer Work Day” from 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. meeting at the top of the old drive just south of mile-marker 110 on Mamalahoa Highway, gloves, tools, cold water, and energy bars provided. Call Peter during office hours at 323-3318 for more information.
Farmer Direct Markets
Wednesday: “Hooulu Farmers Market” 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Sheraton Kona Resort &Spa at Keauhou Bay
Wednesday: “Sunset Farmers Market” 2 p.m. to sunset at the north makai corner of the Kmart parking lot.
Saturday: “Keauhou Farmers Market” 8 a.m. to noon at Keauhou Shopping Center
“Kamuela Farmer’s Market” from 7 a.m. to noon at Pukalani Stables
Sunday: “South Kona Green Market” 9 a.m. – 2 p.m. at Amy Greenwell Garden in Captain Cook
Tuesday–Saturday: “U-Pick greens and produce” 10a.m. to 4p.m. Tropical Edibles Nursery, Captain Cook.
Plant Advice Lines
Anytime: konamg@ctahr.hawaii.edu
Tuesdays and Thursdays: 9 a.m. to noon at UH-CES in Kainaliu – 322-4892
Monday, Tuesday and Friday: 9 a.m. to noon at UH CES at Komohana in Hilo 981-5199 or himga@hawaii.edu
