I hate mustard. Sort of.

Since starting this column in 1990 (yes, 27 years) I have never written about mustard. Writers are advised to write about things they like and/or know, and I’ve pretty much stayed away from mustard my entire life.

Of course, I’ve added it to potato salads, deviled eggs, and vinaigrettes as a flavor enhancer rather than a dominant ingredient. But as a condiment in a sandwich? I’m just not a fan of those acrid, pungent and biting flavors.

Then, a couple of years ago, I had the chance to make my own mustard and realized that fresh-ground is much different from the grocery store staple.

The seeds we used were brought from France by a grandson of Edmond Fallot, whose family has been crafting quality mustards in Burgundy since 1840. I was surprised that the seeds were brown, not yellow. The brown seeds are more pungent and spicy; they’re used in European and Chinese style mustards. Our American-style mustard is made mostly from the milder white mustard seeds, to which turmeric is added for the yellow color. English-style mustards are often a combination of white and brown seeds. With a good old-fashioned stone mortar and pestle, a little Chardonnay, and lots of elbow grease, I created a mild, flavorful paste that challenged my mustard misunderstandings. And so, since National Mustard Day is coming up (this Saturday), I mustered a trio of recipes featuring mustard as a star player.

Mustard-Rosemary Marinade

Use this versatile marinade for all seafood and meats. Recipe from “Fast Appetizers” by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison; makes 1 3/4 cups.

2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary leaves

4 cloves garlic, finely minced

1/3 cup Dijon mustard

1/3 cup dry white wine

1/3 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice

1/4 cup oyster sauce

1/4 cup honey

2 teaspoons hot sauce

Combine all ingredients in a nonreactive bowl; stir well. Brush on seafood, meats or vegetables for grilling or broiling. Discard any marinade not used the same day.

Hot Mustard Fruits

This is a great use for summer’s bounty of fruit. Not quite a chutney or a relish, it can be used as a saucy condiment with simple roast chicken or turkey, roast beef, ham, pork or lamb. Try in rice, too. Recipe from “Chutneys &Relishes” by Lorraine Bodger; makes about 3 cups. It will keep about a week if refrigerated.

2 ripe peaches

3 firm-ripe apricots

2 ripe nectarines

2 tablespoons sweet unsalted butter

1/3 cup packed light brown sugar

3 tablespoons prepared spicy brown mustard

Halve each fruit, discard pits and remove any strings or hard matter from centers. Slice fruit a 1/4-inch thick. In a medium saucepan, melt butter over low heat. Add sugar and mustard; cook, stirring to dissolve sugar, about 5 minutes. Gently stir fruit into mustard mixture; simmer, covered, over low heat about 5 minutes, then remove cover and continue simmering for 20 minutes more, stirring occasionally, until fruit is tender and sauce is thick. Cool until just warm. Serve right away, or refrigerate until needed, then warm in a saucepan over low heat.

Cold Chicken Salad with Mustard and Pine Nuts

Good in any season, this is especially wonderful on a hot day. The sauce will keep a few days in the refrigerator and tastes great in sandwiches. Recipe from “China Moon Cookbook” by Barbara Tropp; makes 2 or 3 main-dish servings.

Mustard Sauce:

1 cup Dijon mustard

1/2 cup sesame oil

3 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar

Dash of fine sea salt

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons juice from pickled ginger

Whisk all ingredients together until emulsified; set aside.

Mustard Vinaigrette:

1/2 cup rice bran, corn, or peanut oil

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar

1 teaspoon of the Mustard Sauce (above)

Dash of fine sea salt

Whisk together all ingredients until emulsified; set aside.

Salad:

6 cups assorted small lettuce leaves

1 1/2 to 2 pounds cooked chicken breast, cut crosswise into 1/4inch-thick ribbons

2 inner ribs celery, thinly sliced on the diagonal

1 or 2 small serrano chilies, cut into paper-thin rings

1 to 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped cilantro leaves &stems

1 small red bell pepper and 1 small yellow bell pepper, julienned

1/3 cup toasted pine nuts

Toss lettuces with a light amount of the vinaigrette; arrange around rims of plates or on a serving platter. In a large bowl, toss chicken, celery and serrano with a light coating of the mustard sauce, tasting to be sure you’ve added enough. Add the chopped cilantro, half the bell peppers, and half the pine nuts; toss to blend. Place mixture on top of the greens. Toss remaining bell peppers with a light amount of the vinaigrette; scatter over chicken. Garnish with remaining pine nuts and serve.