Change the way you make veggie burgers

This undated photo provided by America's Test Kitchen in December 2018 shows Pinto Bean-Beet Burgers in Brookline, Mass. This recipe appears in the cookbook "Nutritious Delicious." (Joe Keller/America's Test Kitchen via AP)

A homemade veggie burger is a welcome alternative to beef — at least in theory. But too many are either mushy or dry and lack flavor.