I grew up with sweetened condensed milk because my mother loved to pour it over Saloon Pilot crackers.
It was invented in France by the French confectioner and chef Nicolas Appert. He opened a canning factory in 1804 and produced condensed, or canned, milk in 1827.
Then in the 1850s, Gail Borden canned condensed milk and it became a military ration.
The added sugar makes the milk last longer. It can be stored in cans for up to one year without refrigeration. Once opened it lasts for only about two weeks.
However, that added sugar accounts for 62 calories per tablespoon so it should be used very sparingly.
It is a popular condiment in Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong and Brazil.
If you have ever ordered Vietnamese iced coffee, or ca’ phe’ sua da, it is made with ice, water, dark roast coffee and sweetened condensed milk.
To make sweetened condensed milk at home take only four ingredients:
Homemade Sweetened Condensed Milk
Makes 2 cups
4 cups whole milk
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
Combine the milk, sugar and salt in a 5-quart stainless steel saucepan. Place over medium heat, stirring occasionally with a heat-resistant spatula, until the milk begins to simmer, about 12 minutes. Continue cooking, scraping continuously to prevent a milky buildup from forming around the sides of the pan, 30 to 45 minutes. When the thickened milk begins to foam, it’s almost done. Keep simmering and stirring until the foam subsides and the milk has condensed to exactly 2 cups, or 19 ounces.
Pour into an airtight container, seal to prevent evaporation, and refrigerate up to one month. Bring to room temperature before using.
In baking, condensed milk inhibits gritty crystallization in fudge or ice cream.
Tangy Ice Cream
with Cashew Brittle
Serves 6
1-1/4 cups 2% reduced-fat milk
1 cup half-and-half
3/4 cup fat-free sweetened condensed milk
1/2 cup sour cream
1/4 teaspoon salt
Cooking spray
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon water
2 teaspoons light-colored corn syrup
2 tablespoons dry-roasted salted cashews, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon butter, softened
Combine the first 5 ingredients, stirring well with a whisk. Place the mixture in the freezer can of a tabletop ice cream freezer, and freeze according to manufacturer’s instructions. Spoon ice cream into a freezer-safe container; freeze for one hour or until firm.
Coat a sheet of parchment paper with cooking spray. Combine sugar, 1 tablespoon water and corn syrup in a small, heavy saucepan; bring to a boil. Cook for 7 minutes or until golden, without stirring. Remove from heat. Stir in nuts and butter, quickly spread the sugar mixture into a thin, even layer over prepared parchment paper, cool completely. Chop brittle and serve over ice cream.
Condensed Milk
Swirl Brownies
Makes 24 brownies
12 ounces (24 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened, and more for pan
1 cup (4-1/2 ounces) all-purpose flour
1-1/3 cups (4 ounces) Dutch-process cocoa
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped
2-1/4 cups (16 ounces) granulated sugar
1/4 packed cup (2 ounces) light brown sugar
1-3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
6 large eggs, cold
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon espresso powder
1-1/2 cups sweetened condensed milk
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350 degrees. Line a 9×13-inch baking pan with parchment paper or foil, leaving an overhang on the longer sides, and butter lightly. In a small bowl, sift together the flour and cocoa powder.
In a medium stainless steel saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat, increase to heat to medium and simmer, stirring with a heat-resistant spatula. While the butter hisses and pops, continue cooking, scraping up any brown bits that form at the bottom of the pan, until the butter is golden yellow. Remove from the heat and stir in the chocolate. The mixture will seem thin.
In a bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the sugars, salt, eggs, vanilla and espresso powder. Whisk on medium-high speed until thick and fluffy, scraping down the bowl as needed, about 8 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and pour in the warm chocolate mixture. Once incorporated, fold in the flour mixture in thirds with a flexible spatula until well combined.
Pour mixture into a prepared pan, and smooth with an offset spatula. Use the back of a spoon to create 20 shallow indentations in the batter. Fill each with one tablespoon of sweetened condensed milk then drag a butter knife through the milk and batter. Bake until the brownies are glossy and just barely firm, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool to room temperature.
Use the parchment or foil overhang to lift the brownies from the pan, then cut into 24 pieces.
Store in an airtight container for up to one week at room temperature.
Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.
